Rollin' with the Homies
The difficulty with sushi-wine pairings is that, when you're dealing with radically different types of fish, often topped with competing flavors, it's nearly impossible to find a a single bottle capable of pairing well with everything. But, let's be real, you most likely aren't ordering a different glass per piece - especially if you plan to have a full sushi dinner. Even for a seasoned drinker, that's just aggressive. So, to combat such a drinking dilemma, I find that a good strategy is to group the pieces of fish you order by their compatible wine types. If you're doing an "Omakase," however, this approach is about as useless as a porn with subtitles. You may need to opt for the restaurant's pairing there.
Sushi Lunch: Sushi of Gari 46 - 347 West 46th Street New York, NY (PC: Sara Snyder)
Tuna (Maguro/Toro): Tuna’s like that kid in high school that everyone liked – he could party with the jocks, make sweet music with the orchestra, and rock out calc problems with the people who didn’t peak at 17. Because raw tuna possesses almost red meat-like characteristics, it pairs amazingly well with soft, complex, low tannin reds like Pinot Noir - try the earthy, Elouan Pinot from Oregon ($26). If, however, you’re hankering for a white, Tuna’s melt-in-your-mouth, fat is beautifully complemented by a smooth, buttery, unoaked Chardonnay like the Mer Soleil "Silver" from Santa Lucia Highlands ($19). The luscious texture match here makes this a serious winner.
Yellowtail (Hamachi): Because Hamachi is known for its rich, creamy texture (but happens to be a white fish), the white wines which pair well with fatty tuna work brilliantly with Yellowtail too. In my opinion, the Mer Soleil "Silver" Santa Lucia Highlands Unoaked Chardonnay ($19) or really any creamy, medium-bodied Chardonnay is a nice option.
Salmon (Sake): Just like Tuna, Salmon can roll with a variety of crews thanks to its salty, slightly smokey flavor profile. When it comes to reds, Salmon’s main squeeze is Pinot Noir like the Elouan from Oregon. For whites, it hangs the best with a highly acidic, dry Riesling like the Trimbach ($17).
Eel (Unagi): Because the eel you receive at sushi places is always cooked/often glazed within an inch of its life in an Asian BBQ sauce, it begs for a fruitier wine with the right amount of effervescence and acidity to cut through Unagi’s fat. Go with something dry, pink, and bubbly like the Canella Rosé Spumante NV ($21). Eel can throw some serious attitude but this Italian Rosé can dish it right back.
Sea Urchin (Uni): If your sushi chef breaks out some gonads – as long as they aren’t his – you should pair their buttery, salty, sweet unctuousness with a steely dry, highly acidic white with moderate minerality/earthy undertones. When looking for a white like this, a French Pinot Gris is always a good starting point. In my book, if your Uni is looking for a life partner, and not a late-night booty call – definitely go with the Trimbach Pinot Gris ($20). For the compatibility and cost, it’s perfect.